Custom Workstation

Thread updated with 2023 exhibit photos.

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ROBIN THE BOY WONDER: "Boy we've sure got our work cut out for us, Batman! Two-Face, The Riddler, The Penguin, Harley Quinn AND The Joker... on the loose and their forces combined??! Holy nightmare!"

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THE BATMAN:"Stay sharp, Robin. We're going to stop those five, and break up their nasty alliance before they can ravage this city. They'll be back in their cages at Arkham before they know it!"

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Can you heat the hip piece and stretch that peg, then cool it so it stays stretched? Then youd heat the thigh and pop it on as usual, and once in there, heat everything so the hip peg goes back to normal.

Can you post pics so we can see the condition? If it's stickers you're needing, find a print shop, either local or online that can print them for you, provided you can recreate the images on a computer.

Count me in. I'll do it.

Hmmm... I'm not overly familiar with him but going off what I can tell from a google search I would look at Naruto for the upper torso (it's a bit bulky on the torso, but the zipper, jacket bottom, and arms are pretty similar and you can thin out the sides and back pretty well) though I'd look for another figure for the legs (rock lee if you want to keep to the same line, but plain pants are pretty basic)

There are some other figures that could also work, such as Master Asia from G Gundam (I've seen a decent tracksuit Gohan done with it) there's a tracksuit Bruce Lee, and if they make a DBS 17 the upper torso might work ok... but I didn't like the bulk of most of them. I'd also look into school anime figures, since I feel the arms and pants would match ok from a typical male school unifor ...

Thank you! I think naruto would work very well. I have not seen naruto so I did not think to look for them. Master asia also might work. All your sugestions are very helpfull, thank you.

So the rough plan RN is that I have a 3d model with a hollowed out torso to use as the base, with magnets inside as space allows (discussions of a LED screen are being discussed, we'll see if that'll happen and how much room it'll take up). That's all gonna be a bit, but where I'm stuck right now is the joints.

While the attachment points will likely end with magnets on either end so I can swap them out, my plan was to have the joints be ball-hinge joints (similar to shoulder joints on an action figure) to allow for full range of motion. However, to match the look of the film with its oscillating energy between the sections, I'd LIKE to have those joints be clear so I can paint the energy lines by hand on top of them. The problem is that the Hobby Base joints that most closely resemble w ...

The easiest way would be to make the central part of the mech out of metal, so that the magnets can attach wherever you want. Perhaps a hollow metal ball as the base, with some modeling around it? Or maybe place strips of metal just underneath your sculpt.

Another way to go is to hide strong magnets underneath the sculpt at specific areas where you want the limbs to attach.

Testor's Model Master Acrylic clear paints work well for what you're trying to do. I've had no problems painting metals first, then clear paints over it. The tamiya paints are weird, I haven't had much success with them.

I've honestly had way more luck and better results mixing clear colors with silver rather than doing them in layers. Also, I don't water down metallics, at most I'll dip the brush in water and lightly squeeze it out before applying the paint, basically enough water to help the paint spread smoothly over the entire surface I'm painting. Oh, AND, I believe it's been mentioned Tamiya paints thin with alcohol rather than water, that's something you may want to research.

Thanks a million!